How to survive the first week with a new puppy

You survived the first 24 hours. Now what?

Bringing home a new puppy is one of life’s great joys — and, if we’re being honest, one of its great sleep deprivations. The first week is a whirlwind of adorable moments, confused expressions, and more than a few puddles on the floor. But these early days are incredibly important. The habits, routines, and trust you build now will shape your dog for years to come.

I often see owners come to Puppy School a few weeks in, already battling problems that started in week one — an overtired puppy who can’t settle, a dog who screams all night, or a household where no one agreed on the rules. The good news? A little knowledge goes a long way. Here’s what I recommend for navigating the first week with confidence.

Before your puppy arrives: set up their space

If you can, have everything ready before you bring your puppy home. Their sleeping area should be a small, calm, contained space — a crate or a puppy pen works well. Place it somewhere close to where the family spends time, but not in the middle of all the action. A crate lined with a cosy blanket and an item of your clothing (so it smells like you) can become a place your puppy genuinely loves to rest in.

Don’t buy the biggest crate available thinking they’ll grow into it. A puppy needs a snug space — too large, and they may toilet in one end and sleep in the other. If you have a large crate, use a divider to reduce the sleeping area initially.

The first night: what to expect (and how to handle it)

Let’s be real — the first night is often rough. Your puppy has just left their mum, their littermates, and every familiar smell they’ve ever known. Crying and whimpering is completely normal. It doesn’t mean you’ve done something wrong.

In my experience, the most effective approach is to place the crate near your bed for the first few nights. Your puppy can hear you breathe, smell you, and feel less alone. You can reach down and offer a reassuring hand without fully waking up. Gradually, over days and weeks, you can move the crate to wherever you’d like it to live long-term.

Some owners worry that responding to crying will “teach the puppy to cry more.” For very young puppies especially, this fear is unfounded. Comfort and security in these early days build confidence, not dependency. Ignoring genuine distress can actually increase anxiety over time.

Start toilet training immediately — really

Don’t wait until day two or three. Toilet training begins the moment your puppy comes home. Take them outside to their designated toilet spot straight from the car, before they even come inside.

Young puppies need to go out very frequently — after every sleep, every meal, every play session, and roughly every 30–60 minutes in between when they’re active. Watch for signs they’re about to go: circling, sniffing the ground, squatting, or suddenly looking distracted. When they toilet outside, give calm, warm praise and a small treat immediately — within seconds of them finishing. Timing matters enormously here.

Accidents will happen. When they do, clean them up thoroughly with an enzyme-based cleaner (this removes the scent markers that draw puppies back to the same spot) and move on. Never scold or punish — puppies don’t connect the punishment with what they did moments ago, and it will only teach them to hide from you when they need to go.

Introducing the crate: keep it positive

The crate is not a jail. Used well, it becomes your puppy’s favourite retreat — a calm, safe den that helps them settle, keeps them safe when unsupervised, and supports toilet training. But it needs to be introduced gradually and positively.

Start by tossing treats inside while the door stays open. Feed meals in or near the crate. Let your puppy choose to go in and out freely. Only begin closing the door for short periods once your puppy is comfortable going in on their own. Build up duration slowly — a few minutes at first, then longer as they settle.

Don’t overwhelm them

I know it’s tempting to introduce your puppy to every friend, family member, and neighbour in the first week. Resist the urge. Your puppy’s nervous system is still developing, and too much stimulation too soon can lead to an overtired, over-aroused puppy who struggles to switch off.

Puppies this age need enormous amounts of sleep — up to 16–18 hours a day. Protect those rest periods. Enforce nap times by placing your puppy in their crate or pen with a stuffed Kong or chew. A rested puppy learns better and behaves better.

Safe socialisation starts now

Even before full vaccination, socialisation should begin. The socialisation window closes at around 16 weeks, so waiting until your puppy is fully vaccinated before exposing them to the world can mean missing a critical developmental window.

Safe options before full vaccination include: carrying your puppy in areas where unknown dogs may have been, visiting the homes of healthy, vaccinated dogs, sitting in outdoor café areas and letting the world happen around them, and attending a well-run puppy class that accepts partially vaccinated puppies. Exposure to sounds, surfaces, people of different ages, and gentle handling is all enormously valuable.

Begin name recognition and hand-feeding

You don’t need to wait for “formal training” to start teaching. In week one, simply say your puppy’s name, and the moment they look at you, say “yes!” and give a treat. Keep it light and positive — you’re just building the association that their name is a wonderful thing to hear.

Hand-feeding some of your puppy’s daily meals is also a fantastic habit. It builds trust, teaches them to take food gently, and gives you dozens of mini training moments throughout the day without any extra effort.

Managing children and other pets

If you have children, set clear rules from day one: no picking the puppy up without supervision, no disturbing them while they sleep, no teasing or rough play. Puppies who are regularly overwhelmed by children can become anxious or snappy — it’s rarely the child’s fault, but it’s always preventable with good management.

Introduce existing pets slowly and calmly, with the puppy on lead if needed. Give your resident dog or cat plenty of attention and a safe space to retreat where the puppy cannot follow. Most pets adjust well given time and thoughtful introductions.

What NOT to do in week one

Don’t use punishment, raised voices, or physical corrections — these damage trust during a critical bonding period.
Don’t expect your puppy to “know” the rules yet — they’re a baby, and patience is everything.
Don’t skip rest periods to fit in more play or socialisation.
Don’t let bad habits slide because it’s “just this once” — puppies learn what we practise, good or bad.
Don’t assume that problems will sort themselves out — if something doesn’t feel right, seek advice early.

The first week lays the foundation for everything that follows. It doesn’t have to be perfect — just warm, consistent, and kind. You’re doing better than you think.

Enrolling in Puppy School as soon as your puppy is vaccinated is one of the best things you can do in those early weeks. We’d love to meet you both.